Friday, July 24, 2009
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
101 Salads For the Summer
101 Simple Salads for the Summer
SUMMER may not be the best time to cook, but it’s certainly among the best times to eat. Toss watermelon and peaches with some ingredients you have lying around already, and you can produce a salad that’s delicious, unusual, fast and perfectly seasonal.
That’s the idea behind the 101 ideas found in this section. In theory, each salad takes 20 minutes or less. Honestly, some may take you a little longer. But most minimize work at the stove and capitalize on the season, when tomatoes, eggplant, herbs, fruit, greens and more are plentiful and excellent.
This last point is important. Not everything needs to be farmers’ market quality, but it’s not too much to expect ripe fruit, fragrant herbs and juicy greens.
Salt, to taste, is a given in all of these recipes. Pepper, too (if I want you to use a lot of pepper, I say so).
Herein, then, are enough salad ideas to tide you over until the weather cools down.
MOSTLY VEGAN SALADS
1. Cube watermelon and combine with tomato chunks, basil and basic vinaigrette. You can substitute peach for the watermelon or the tomato (but not both, O.K.?). You can also add bacon or feta, but there goes the vegan-ness.
2. Mix wedges of tomatoes and peaches, add slivers of red onion, a few red-pepper flakes and cilantro. Dress with olive oil and lime or lemon juice. Astonishing.
3. A nice cucumber salad: Slice cucumbers thin (if they’re fat and old, peel and seed them first), toss with red onions and salt, then let sit for 20 to 60 minutes. Rinse, dry, dress with cider vinegar mixed with Dijon mustard; no oil necessary.
4. Shave raw asparagus stalks with a vegetable peeler. Discard the tough first pass of the peeler — i.e., the peel — but do use the tips, whole. Dress with lemon vinaigrette and coarse salt. (Chopped hard-boiled eggs optional but good.)
5. Grate or very thinly slice Jerusalem artichokes; mix with pitted and chopped oil-cured olives, olive oil, lemon juice and a sprinkling of coarsely ground cumin. Unusual and wonderful.
6. Sichuan slaw: Toss bean sprouts, shredded carrots and celery, minced fresh chili, soy sauce, sesame oil and a bit of sugar. Top with chopped peanuts and chopped basil, mint and/or cilantro. (The full trio is best.)
7. Grate carrots, toast some sunflower seeds, and toss with blueberries, olive oil, lemon juice and plenty of black pepper. Sweet, sour, crunchy, soft.
8. Chop or slice radishes (or jicama, or the ever-surprising kohlrabi) and combine with chopped or sliced unripe (i.e., still crunchy) mango, lime juice and mint or cilantro.
9. Chop or slice jicama (or radishes or kohlrabi) and mango and mix with coconut milk, lime juice, curry powder and cilantro or mint.
10. Cook whole grape tomatoes in olive oil over high heat until they brown lightly, sprinkling with curry powder. Cool a bit, then toss with chopped arugula, loads of chopped mint and lime juice.
11. Chop and steam baby or grown-up bok choy until crisp-tender, then shock it in ice water. Drain, then toss with halved cherry tomatoes, capers, olive oil and lemon juice.
12. Combine sliced fennel and prune plums; serve with vinaigrette spiked with minced ginger. Nice pairing.
13. A red salad: Combine tomato wedges with halved strawberries, basil leaves, shaved Parmesan and balsamic vinegar.
14. A classic Moroccan thing: Thinly slice carrots, or grate or shred them (the food processor makes quick work of this). Toss with toasted cumin seeds, olive oil, lemon juice and cilantro. Raisins are good in here, too. There is no better use of raw carrots.
15. Cut cherry or grape tomatoes in half; toss with soy sauce, a bit of dark sesame oil and basil or cilantro. I love this — the tomato juice-soy thing is incredible.
16. Slice fennel and crisp apple about the same thickness (your choice). Combine, then dress with mustardy vinaigrette and chopped parsley. Come fall, this will be even better.
17. With thanks to Szechuan Gourmet restaurant: Finely chop celery and mix with a roughly equal amount of pressed or smoked tofu, chopped. Dress with peanut oil warmed with chili flakes and Sichuan peppercorns, then mixed with soy sauce.
18. Roughly chop cooked or canned chickpeas (you can pulse them, carefully, in a food processor) and toss with olive oil, lemon juice, lots of chopped fresh parsley and mint, and a few chopped tomatoes. Call this chickpea tabbouleh.
19. Mix cooked cannellini or other white beans, chopped cherry or grape tomatoes and arugula or baby spinach. Lightly toast sliced garlic in olive oil with rosemary and red pepper flakes; cool slightly, add lemon zest or juice or both, then pour over beans.
20. Shred Napa cabbage and radishes. The dressing is roasted peanuts, lime juice, peanut or other oil, cilantro and fresh or dried chili, all whizzed in a blender. Deliciousness belies ease.
21. Dice cucumbers (if they’re fat and old, peel and seed them first) and toss with cubes of avocado, a little mirin (or honey, but then it’s not vegan), rice vinegar and soy sauce. (You could mix in a little lump crab meat, really not vegan, even rice, and call it a California roll salad.)
22. Thinly slice button mushrooms; toss with finely chopped carrots and celery and mix with mung bean sprouts. Finish with peanut or olive oil, sherry vinegar, a little soy sauce and minced ginger. (This is a super vinaigrette, by the way.)
23. Thinly slice some cucumbers (if they’re fat and old, peel and seed them first), red onions, radishes and fresh chili pepper. Soak for a few minutes in equal amounts vinegar and water, with some salt and sugar. When they taste lightly pickled, drain and serve, alone or over rice.
24. Blanch spinach, then drain and shock in ice water. Squeeze it dry, chop it and toss it with toasted pine nuts, raisins, olive oil and a tiny bit of balsamic vinegar. Capers are good, too. Quite elegant, actually.
25. Combine chopped bell peppers, tomatoes, red onion, chilies and cilantro, then toss with corn tortilla strips, toasted in a 350-degree oven until crisp (or yes, use packaged chips; why not?). Dust with chili powder and lots of lime juice.
26. Combine mushroom caps and thinly sliced red onions with olive oil; broil gently until tender and browned. Toss with a lot of chopped fresh parsley or basil (or both) and a simple vinaigrette. Some chopped escarole, arugula or watercress is good, too.
27. Cook whole, unpeeled eggplant in a dry, hot skillet or on a grill, turning occasionally, until completely collapsed and soft. Chop and toss with toasted pita, toasted pine nuts, cooked white beans and halved cherry tomatoes. Dress with olive oil, lemon juice and lots of black pepper. Or a (non-vegan) yogurt dressing is good, especially one laced with tahini.
28. Toss mâche or another soft green with toasted slivered almonds and roughly chopped fresh figs. Thin some almond butter with water and sherry vinegar to taste and use as a dressing. Some will like this with fresh goat cheese.
29. Pit and halve cherries (or halve and pit cherries), then cook gently with olive oil and a little balsamic vinegar until they break down. Toss with chopped radicchio, endive, escarole or a combination, some toasted hazelnuts and more oil and vinegar, if necessary.
30. Fast, grown-up potato salad: Boil bite-size red potatoes. While still warm, dress them with olive oil, lemon juice, whole grain mustard, capers and parsley. Chopped shallots, bell peppers, etc., all welcome, too.
31. Roast beets whole (or buy them precooked), then slice or cube and toss with a little chopped garlic (or a lot of roasted garlic), toasted walnuts, orange juice and olive oil.
32. Same deal with the beets, but toss with cooked corn, arugula, olive oil, sherry vinegar and chopped shallots.
33. The real five-bean: Chickpeas, cannellini or other white beans, kidney or other red beans, steamed string beans and steamed yellow wax beans. Toss with vinaigrette, chopped scallions or red onion, and parsley.
34. Grill quartered romaine hearts, radicchio and/or endive. Drizzle with olive oil and sherry vinegar, and add dill and chopped shallots. Teeny-tiny croutons are great on this.
35. Combine cooked or canned black beans with shredded cabbage and this vinaigrette: olive oil, fresh orange juice, not much sherry vinegar, ground cumin.
36. Mix cooked or canned chickpeas with toasted coconut, shredded carrots, chopped celery, curry powder, olive oil, lime juice and cilantro.
VEGETARIAN SALADS
37. Cube smoked tofu, then brush it with a mixture of honey and orange juice; broil until browned. Toss with chopped cucumbers, radishes and peas or pea shoots; drizzle with soy sauce and lime juice.
38. Cube watermelon; combine with roughly chopped mint, crumbled feta, sliced red onion and chopped Kalamata olives. Dress lightly with olive oil and lemon juice. Despite saltiness of feta and olives, this may need salt.
39. Yucatecan street food as salad: Roast fresh corn kernels in a pan with a little oil; toss with cayenne or minced chilis, lime juice and a little queso fresco. Cherry tomatoes are optional.
40. Slice cucumber and top with capers, olive oil, lots of pepper and little dollops of fresh ricotta. Note: cucumbers, ricotta and oil must all be really good.
41. Halve avocados and scoop out some but not all of their flesh. Roughly chop and toss with black beans, queso fresco, cilantro, chopped tomatillos and lime juice. Serve in the meaty avocado shells.
42. Trim crusts if necessary from day-or-two-old bread (or even three-day-old bread), cube and marinate in black olive tapenade thinned with more olive oil. Add chopped capers and toss with tomatoes, basil and mozzarella. (Anchovies optional.)
43. Grate raw beets (use the food processor to avoid ruining everything within spattering distance) and toss with watercress or arugula. Top with sherry vinaigrette and a little goat cheese. Especially obvious, perhaps, but also especially popular.
44. Make a crisp grilled cheese sandwich, with good bread and not too much good cheese. Let it cool, then cut into croutons. Put them on anything, but especially tomato and basil salad. This you will do forever.
45. Halve or quarter cooked artichoke hearts (the best are fresh and grilled, but you can use canned or frozen) and combine with cherry tomatoes, bits of feta or Parmesan or both, olive oil and lemon juice.
46. Sauté mushrooms and shallots in olive oil. Add a lot of spinach, chopped unless the leaves are small. When it wilts, stir in parsley and crumbled blue cheese. Feels like a steakhouse side-dish salad.
47. Thinly slice raw button mushrooms; combine with sliced or shaved Parmesan, parsley and a vinaigrette of olive oil, sherry vinegar and shallots.
48. Toss roughly chopped dandelion greens (or arugula or watercress) with chopped preserved lemon, chickpeas, crumbled feta and olive oil. (Before you start cursing me out, here’s a quick way to make preserved lemons: chop whole lemons and put in a bowl with the juice of another lemon or two, sprinkle with a fair amount of salt and let sit for an hour or so.)
49. Toss greens with walnuts, blue cheese and raspberries; drizzle with a simple vinaigrette. Sell for $14 a serving.
50. It’s puttanesca-ish: Egg salad with pitted black olives, chopped tomatoes, capers, anchovies (optional), a tiny bit of garlic and some red onion; mayonnaise as needed.
51. Arrange sliced ripe tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs on a platter; scatter a handful of chopped pitted green olives on top. Drizzle with a dressing made with olive oil, sherry vinegar and a teaspoon of pimentón.
52. Chop hard-boiled eggs and mix with just enough mayonnaise to bind; spoon into endive leaves. Top each with a small canned sardine and drizzle with a vinaigrette of olive oil, lemon juice and mustard.
53. Peel beets and grate them in a food processor. Mix equal parts plain yogurt and tahini, and toss with the beets along with lemon juice and za’atar (a mixture of toasted sesame seeds, dried green herbs and ground sumac; you can make it yourself using dried thyme).
54. Slice roasted red peppers (if you must use canned, try to find piquillos) and fresh mozzarella. Toss with cooked white beans, olive oil, red wine vinegar, a chopped shallot and fresh rosemary or parsley.
SALADS WITH SEAFOOD
55. Mix watercress with chopped smoked salmon, avocado, red onion and capers. Make a vinaigrette with olive oil, sherry vinegar and mustard powder.
56. Salade niçoise, sort of: On or around a bed of greens, make mounds of olives, cooked new potatoes and green beans (warm or at room temperature), good tomatoes, capers, fennel slivers, hard-cooked eggs and good quality Italian canned tuna. None of these is crucial; you get the idea. Serve with vinaigrette or aioli.
57. Toss cubes of day-or-more-old good bread with soy sauce, chopped sautéed shrimp, chopped radishes and cilantro. Like a weird shrimp toast panzanella.
58. Sear tuna until rare (for that matter, you could leave it raw) and cut it into small cubes. Toss with shredded jicama or radish and shredded Napa cabbage; season with mirin, soy sauce and cilantro. Avocado and/or wasabi paste are great with this, too.
59. Sear tuna, or use good canned tuna. Chop it up and mix with chopped olives, capers, tomatoes, parsley and olive oil.
60. Ditto on the tuna. Mix with chopped apples, halved seedless grapes, chopped red onion, olive oil, a bit of cumin and black pepper.
61. Mix canned salmon (sockeye, or use cooked fresh) with capers, chopped celery, yogurt or mayonnaise, and lemon juice. Serve on greens or in endive leaves.
62. Dust shrimp with chili powder. Sauté in butter or oil (or a combination) with fresh corn kernels and flavorful cooking greens (bok choy is good, as is watercress). Add halved cherry tomatoes and lime juice at the last minute.
63. Sunday brunch salad: Mix diced cucumbers, chopped tomato, minced red onion and capers with bits of smoked salmon. Dress with lemon juice (you won’t need much oil, if any). Take a step further by adding croutons of cubed toasted bagels.
64. Alternative Sunday brunch: Shred or chop cucumbers (if they’re fat and old, peel and seed them first), then toss with flaked smoked trout or whitefish, capers, dill, lemon juice and olive oil.
65. In a hot pan, flash-cook cut-up squid in a little olive oil for no more than two minutes. Toss with cooked or canned chickpeas, chopped bell peppers, lemon juice, a little more oil and parsley.
66. In a hot pan, sear sea scallops for a minute or two on each side, depending on size. Slice or chop, then toss with thinly sliced fennel and lemon or orange vinaigrette and some chopped fennel fronds.
67. Bread salad for anchovy lovers: Chop together many anchovies, a few capers, lemon juice and olive oil (or anchovy oil). Toss with cubes of toasted bread and chopped tomatoes or halved cherry or grape tomatoes.
68. Mix crab meat with pan-roasted corn, chopped avocado, halved cherry or grape tomatoes, olive oil, lemon juice and perhaps a bit of cilantro and crumbled ancho chili.
69. Stir-fry small or chopped shrimp in olive or peanut oil with lots of ginger; while still warm, combine with tomato wedges, chopped romaine, cilantro, scallions and lots of lime juice. Good in pita.
SALADS WITH MEAT
70. Shred brussels sprouts in the food processor, preferably with the slicing disk. Toss with vinaigrette and crumbled bacon.
71. Combine sliced green tomatoes and sliced fresh mozzarella; top with roughly chopped basil, olive oil, black pepper and crumbled bacon.
72. Sort-of carpaccio salad: Broil or grill skirt or sirloin steak very rare and slice very thin. Arrange on a plate with tomato wedges, lettuce and lemon juice.
73. Hawaiitalian: Combine pineapple chunks with bits of any cured pork product — cooked guanciale is ideal, or any ham — and a not-too-subtle chili vinaigrette.
74. Julienne red, yellow and orange bell peppers; mix with thinly sliced red onion, olive oil and cooked crumbled sausage or chopped salami.
75. The Little Italy salad: Chop or julienne salami and prosciutto, then toss with cubed mozzarella, chopped tomato, pepperoncini, oil and wine vinegar.
76. Slice fresh figs — many, if you live where they grow — and top with crumbled bacon, balsamic vinegar (the best you have) and crumbled blue cheese.
77. Combine shredded cabbage or lettuce with bits of good turkey, Swiss cheese and rye croutons. Top with good old Russian dressing, call it a turkey sandwich salad and don’t knock it until you try it.
78. What happens when your Chicago hot dog falls apart: Toss together tomato wedges, chopped pickles, hot peppers, shredded lettuce and a few slices of broiled or grilled hot dog. Dress with a vinaigrette made with mustard (should be yellow for authenticity, but ...) and celery salt. (You could throw in freshly made croutons; inauthentic, but better than a hot dog bun.)
79. Sear a steak and move it to a cutting board (don’t wash the pan); wait a minute or two, then slice. Cut kale (preferably black, also known as Tuscan, or dino kale) into thin ribbons and toss in the pan over high heat for a minute. Turn off the heat, add chopped black olives, olive oil and sherry vinegar. Serve kale with steak on top.
80. Sort-of-Cobb salad: Choose any combination of hard-cooked eggs, chopped prosciutto, cooked chicken, crumbled Gorgonzola, chopped tomatoes, chickpeas or white beans, sliced red onion, olives. Make vinaigrette with capers and anchovies.
81. Soak sliced prune plums or figs in balsamic vinegar for a few minutes, then add olive oil, chopped celery and red onion, shreds of roasted or grilled chicken, chopped fresh marjoram or oregano and chopped almonds. Serve on top of or toss with greens. So good.
82. Cut pancetta into matchsticks and crisp in a skillet with some oil, then caramelize onions in the fat. Toss both with chopped bitter greens — radicchio, escarole or endive, for example — toasted pine nuts and halved cherry or grape tomatoes.
83. Toss thinly sliced Vidalia or other sweet onions with olive oil and red wine vinegar. Sear a skirt steak and let sit a minute; slice it thin. Toss salad greens with the onions, roasted red peppers, and steak; add a little more oil and vinegar if necessary.
SALADS WITH NOODLES
84. Spring rolls, unrolled: One at a time, soften a few sheets of rice paper in warm water. Drain, pat dry, cut into strips and toss with chopped cucumber, grated carrots, chopped cilantro, bean sprouts, chili flakes and chopped roasted peanuts. Dress with toasted sesame oil, fish sauce or soy sauce, and rice vinegar or lime juice. A few shrimp are a nice addition.
85. Mix lots of arugula with somewhat less cold whole wheat penne, lemon zest, olive oil and Parmesan. The idea is an arugula salad with pasta, not a pasta salad with arugula.
86. Toss chilled cooked soba noodles with diced cucumber (if they’re fat and old, peel and seed them first), a small amount of hijiki reconstituted with water, toasted sesame seeds and a vinaigrette laced with soy sauce and miso.
87. Cold not-sesame noodles: Combine about a half-cup peanut butter with a tablespoon soy sauce and enough coconut milk to make the mixture creamy (about a half cup), along with garlic and chili flakes in a blender or food processor. Toss sauce with cooked and cooled noodles, a load of mint, Thai basil, and/or cilantro, and lime juice. Shredded cucumber and carrots optional.
88. Toss cooked pasta with roasted red peppers, toasted walnuts, fresh goat cheese, basil and olive oil. Corny, but still good.
89. Soak or cook rice noodles, drain and rinse; toss with cubed unripe mango, chopped peanuts, shredded carrot and minced scallion. Make a dressing of rice vinegar, fish sauce, lime juice, chili and a bit of sugar.
90. Sort of classic pasta salad: Pasta, artichoke hearts, sliced prosciutto or salami, chopped plum tomato. Dress with olive oil and a bit of balsamic vinegar, perhaps with some mustard.
GRAIN SALADS
91. Cereal for grown-ups: Start with puffed brown rice; toss with chopped tomatoes, scallions, a minced chili, cooked or canned chickpeas and toasted unsweetened coconut. Dress with coconut milk and lime juice.
92. Simmer a cup of bulgur and some roughly chopped cauliflower florets until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Toss with chopped tarragon, roughly chopped hazelnuts, minced garlic, Dijon mustard, olive oil and lemon juice.
93. Mix leftover rice with lemon or lime juice, soy sauce and a combination of sesame and peanut oils. Microwave if necessary to soften the rice, then serve at room temperature, tossed with sprouts, shredded radishes, chopped scallions, bits of cooked meat or fish if you like and more soy sauce.
94. Cook and cool quinoa. Toss with olive oil, loads of lemon juice, tons of parsley, some chopped tomatoes and, if you like, toasted pine nuts. Call it quinoa tabbouleh.
95. Mix cooked couscous or quinoa with orange zest and juice, olive oil, maybe honey, sliced oranges, raisins or dried cranberries, chopped red onion and chopped almonds. Serve over greens, or not.
96. Cook short-grain white rice in watered-down coconut milk (be careful that it doesn’t burn) and a few cardamom pods. While warm, toss with peas (they can be raw if they’re fresh and tender), chopped cashews or pistachios, a pinch of chili flakes and chopped raw spinach.
97. Toss cooked, cooled farro, wheat berries, barley or other chewy grain with chopped-up grapes. Add olive oil, lemon juice and thinly sliced romaine lettuce; toss again, with ricotta salata or feta if you want.
98. Toss cooked bulgur with cooked chickpeas, quartered cherry or grape tomatoes, a little cumin, lots of chopped parsley, and lemon juice.
99. Toss cooked quinoa with fresh sliced apricots, cherries, pecans, and enough lemon and black pepper to make the whole thing savory.
100. Mash a canned chipotle with some of its adobo and stir with olive oil and lime juice. Toss with drained canned hominy, fresh corn cut from the cob (or drained pinto beans), cilantro and green onions.
101. Cook a pot of short-grain rice. While it’s still hot, toss with raw grated zucchini, fermented black beans, sriracha, sesame oil, sake and a touch of rice vinegar. Add bits of leftover roast chicken or pork if you have it, and pass soy sauce at the table.Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Fungus Threatens Tomatoes In The Mid Atlantic
Outbreak of Fungus Threatens Tomato Crop
A highly contagious fungus that destroys tomato plants has quickly spread to nearly every state in the Northeast and the mid-Atlantic, and the weather over the next week may determine whether the outbreak abates or whether tomato crops are ruined, according to federal and state agriculture officials.
The spores of the fungus, called late blight, are often present in the soil, and small outbreaks are not uncommon in August and September. But the cool, wet weather in June and the aggressively infectious nature of the pathogen have combined to produce what Martin A. Draper, a senior plant pathologist at the United States Department of Agriculture, described as an “explosive” rate of infection.
William Fry, a professor of plant pathology at Cornell, said, “I’ve never seen this on such a wide scale.”
A strain of the fungus was responsible for the Irish potato famine of the mid-19th century. The current outbreak is believed to have spread from plants in garden stores to backyard gardens and commercial fields. If it continues, there could be widespread destruction of tomato crops, especially organic ones, and higher prices at the market.
“Locally grown tomatoes normally get $15 to $20 a box” at wholesale, said John Mishanec, a pest management specialist at Cornell who has been visiting farms and organizing emergency growers’ meetings across upstate New York. “Some growers are talking about $40 boxes already.” Tomatoes on almost every farm in New York’s fertile “Black Dirt” region in the lower Hudson Valley, he said, have been affected.
Professor Fry, who is genetically tracking the blight, said the outbreak spread in part from the hundreds of thousands of tomato plants bought by home gardeners at Wal-Mart, Lowe’s, Home Depot and Kmart stores starting in April. The wholesale gardening company Bonnie Plants, based in Alabama, had supplied most of the seedlings and recalled all remaining plants starting on June 26. Dennis Thomas, Bonnie Plants’ general manager, said five of the recalled plants showed signs of late blight.
“This pathogen did not come from our plants,” Mr. Thomas said on Wednesday. “This is something that has been around forever.”
Mr. Draper said the diseased seedlings, found in stores as far west as Ohio, were at least one source of the illness, but, he added, “It’s possible that we are looking at multiple epidemics.”
Mr. Mishanec said agricultural pathogens can easily spread when plants are distributed regionally and sold by big-box retailers.
“Farms are inspected, greenhouses are inspected,” he said, “but garden centers aren’t, and the people who work there aren’t trained to spot disease.”
Authorities recommend that home gardeners inspect their tomato plants for late blight signs, which include white, powdery spores; large olive green or brown spots on leaves; and brown or open lesions on the stems. Gardeners who find an affected plant should pull it, seal it in a plastic bag and throw it away, not compost it. Unaffected plants in home gardens and commercial fields should be sprayed with fungicide to prevent the spread of the disease. (More information can be found at a Cornell Web site, http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu.)
In Rhode Island, some farmers have plowed tomato fields under at the first sign of blight, said Kristen Castrataro, an extension agent with the University of Rhode Island.
At the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture in Pocantico Hills, N.Y., half the year’s tomato crop was infected and has been lost, said Dan Barber, the center’s chef and creative director.
Tim Stark, a Pennsylvania farmer who specializes in tomatoes, said he spotted three affected plants — he has more than 25,000 in the ground — last week and was worried enough to spray them with synthetic fungicide for the first time in 14 years of farming. For good measure, he pulled all of his potatoes out of the field.
There are two strains of late blight — tomato and potato — but the illness can jump from one species to the other. It is highly contagious: A single open lesion on a plant can produce hundreds of thousands of infectious spores.
Fungicides can protect unaffected plants from disease, but there is no cure for late blight. Organic farmers, who are not permitted to use powerful synthetic fungicides like chlorothalonil, have very few weapons against this aggressive pathogen.
On Thursday morning, Chris Walbrecht, co-owner of the organic farm Garden of Eve in Riverhead, N.Y., on Long Island, found the first signs of late blight on a row of 800 Early Girl tomato plants; he said he might have to destroy them all, a major blow to the farm’s finances.
An acre of tomato plants can produce 30,000 to 40,000 pounds of tomatoes. “At $7 a pound, tomatoes are one of our most profitable crops,” he said.
Hot, sunny weather, which can kill late blight, could dramatically slow or eliminate the fungus’s spread over the next week, experts said.
“I see a day like today that’s overcast and windy, those spores are flying around everywhere, and rain tonight will bring it all down to the ground,” Meg McGrath, a vegetable pathologist on the faculty of the Cornell horticulture research center in Riverhead, said on Thursday. “The disease loves these conditions.”
Correction: An earlier version of this article included Gramoxone in a list of fungicides. It is in fact a herbicide.Friday, June 5, 2009
Peter Michael Wines At Sean's American Bistro
In 1982 Sir Peter Michael established the Peter Michael winery on a square mile of rocky volcanic ridges that form the western face of Mount St. Helena in Sonoma County. From the beginning, the wine growing philosophy was modeled on the French tradition infused with a few modern influences:
One, the vineyard terroir would be the single most important feature. Two, the wines would be elegant rather than overstated. Three, there would be a hundred-year commitment to the development of a great estate.
To drink a Peter Michael wine is to experience the flavor and aromas of a vineyard. The philosophy of the winery is irrevocably purist – whatever the vineyard gives becomes the wine. Winemaking serves exclusively to preserve the quintessential character, flavor and personality of each vineyard so as to convey a sense of place, or “terroir.”
Only premium hillside vineyard fruit is selected for Peter Michael wines. Vineyards from our estate located on the slopes of Mount St. Helena in Eastern Sonoma County, the Alexander Mountain Estate above Alexander Valley, and the Pisoni Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands provide the foundation for the intense flavors and aromas in our wines. Each wine is a single-vineyard bottling representing the unique characteristics of its site.
| Fires and Grapes weave their way through the history of Sugarloaf Ranch and the surrounding area. Discover the past starting with ancient Indian tribes, the Spaniards and early settlers and the legacy left for those living on and around Sugarloaf Ranch. | |
| Then follow the Estate Tour of Sugarloaf Ranch from its top high up the slopes of Mt. St. Helena to the gardens and parkland settings on the floor of Knights Valley. | |
Asparagus In The Spring
Asparagus: Spring’s Most Versatile Vegetable
Fresh asparagus is available in greenmarkets in the East and Midwest through the end of June. But here in California, the season began a few months ago — a great thing, as this is a vegetable I never tire of. There’s a lot you can do with asparagus besides just eating it unadorned, steamed for five minutes or — if you’ve got nice, fat stalks — roasted. Delicate, thin stalks go wonderfully with eggs, either stirred into scrambled eggs or tossed with a vinaigrette and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. I love to toss asparagus with pasta, and I often use it in soups. Children seem to like it, too. If the family table has seen too much broccoli, asparagus makes a fine alternative.
When cooking asparagus, you must first break off the tough stem ends by bending the stalk. Save and simmer the ends to make a delicious broth. (In traditional Indian and Chinese medicine, the ends are commended for their diuretic properties and used to “strengthen” the reproductive system.)
The tender, edible part of this lovely plant is an excellent source of vitamin K, folate, vitamin C and vitamin A, as well as a very good source of a number of other nutrients, including tryptophan, B vitamins, manganese, dietary fiber, phosphorus and potassium. All this comes in a very low-calorie package: there are about 40 calories in a cup of cooked asparagus.
Roasted Asparagus
Roast asparagus this way and it becomes positively juicy. You’d think one pound would be enough for four people, but in my experience the thick stalks — the best kind to use — are really irresistible. Err on the side of extravagance, and polish up any leftovers for lunch the next day.
2 pounds thick asparagus, woody ends snapped off
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (optional)
Fresh lemon juice (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Oil a baking sheet or a baking dish large enough to hold the asparagus in one layer. Place the asparagus in the dish, and toss with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Place in the oven and roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until the stalks begin to shrivel and color lightly.
2. Remove from the heat, toss with the thyme and season with lemon juice if desired.
Yield: Serves four to six
Advance preparation: If you want to serve this hot, there’s nothing to do in advance; however, you can serve it at room temperature. Don’t add the lemon juice until just before serving.Saturday, May 16, 2009
Alaskan Halibut
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Halibut fisheries have changed dramatically over the past several decades. In the 70's, halibut was fished for during a 5 month season. In the late 80's, only two openers of 24 to 48 hour lengths were available. This "derby style" fishing produced huge landings but low quality catch, not to mention, the extraordinary risks fishermen took during these short periods to secure their seasonal income. In 1995, halibut fishing switched to an individual vessel quota system which has increased the availability of fresh halibut to an 8 month annual span, while also increasing the quality of the halibut landed. Today, commercial Pacific halibut fishing is regulated by the International Pacific Halibut Commission. Members from the U.S. and Canada meet yearly to review research, check progress of commercial fishery, and make new regulations. This management is intended to allow maximum sustained yield of halibut.
The largest concentration of pacific halibut is in the Gulf of Alaska, with most in the Kodiak Island area. A smaller amount exist in the Bering Sea. Both Alaska and British Columbia halibut fisheries now operate under an Individual Transferable Quota (ITQ) system. Under the ITQ system, fishermen "own" their quota and can fish for it anytime from March 15th through November 15th. Halibut is also fished for in Russia and Japan. Generally the U.S. and Canada's halibut is superior in quality to Russian halibut, but Russian technology is making improvements that will allow them to be more comparable in quality. Russia and Japan halibut are smaller, averaging 10 to 30 pounds, but have higher oil content. Alaska halibut accounts for 80% of the North America harvest of Pacific halibut. Annual quotas now average about 25,000 tons. The U.S imports more than 8,000 tons from both Russia and Japan.
Halibut are caught using the "long-line" method. This fishing gear consists of units of leaded ground lines in lengths of 100 fathoms which are referred to as "skates". Each skate has approximately 100 hooks spread out along its length. A "set" consist of one or more baited skates tied together and laid on the ocean bottom with anchors at each end. Each end has a float line with a buoy reaching the surface. Hooks are baited with frozen herring or other fresh fish. A skate set could cover several miles of ocean floor. Depending on the fishing grounds, time of year, and bait u  sed, a set is fished 2 to 20 hours before being pulled by a hydraulic puller. In the past, halibut provided subsistence for several Alaska native coastal villages. Much folklore is found concerning halibut. Each fish hook used was carved with special designs to bring good luck and large fish. |
Halibut are among the largest fish in the sea and the largest of all the flatfish. They can grow to more than 8 ft long and 700 lbs. Halibut weighing in at more than 100 pounds are often called "Whales", "Soakers", or even "Barn Doors", while smaller halibut, less than 20 pounds, are often called "Chickens". The 
Commercial halibut fishing began in the 1890's with company-owned steamers carrying several small dories (two-man row boats), from which the fishing actually was conducted. Thereafter, smaller 60' to 100' schooner type boats, specifically designed for halibut fishing, were used in the fishery carrying crews of 5 to 8 deckhands. Most halibut boats used today are more versatile and also take part in the salmon and crab fisheries. 
Brussels Sprouts At Sean's American Bistro
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
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Brussels sprouts look like miniature heads of cabbage. They are similar to cabbage in taste, but they are slightly milder in flavor and denser in texture. Brussels sprouts and cabbage are members of the cruciferous vegetable family. These vegetables contain significant amounts of the antioxidants vitamin C and beta-carotene (vitamin A), and nitrogen compounds called indoles which may reduce the risk of certain cancers.Brussels sprouts are a good source of vegetable protein, because 31% of the calories come from protein. Do remember though that it is an incomplete source of protein and should be complemented with whole grain foods during the course of the day.
Most Brussels sprouts are grown in California. They are available all year round, but their peak-growing season is in autumn through early spring.
How To Select
Choose firm compact sprouts that are bright green in color. Fresh Brussels sprouts should be displayed chilled. If they are kept at room temperature, their leaves will turn yellow quickly. Yellow or wilted leaves are signs of age or mishandling. Old sprouts also have a strong, cabbage-like odor. It is best to choose sprouts individually from bulk displays rather than pint or quart tubs. Choose small, firm, compact sprouts with unblemished leaves. Select sprouts that are similar in size. This will allow them to cook more evenly. Avoid sprouts that are puffy or soft.
Storage
Do not wash or trim sprouts before storing them, but yellow or wilted outer leaves may be remove. If you have purchased sprouts that have been packaged in a cellophane-covered container, take off wrapping, examine them, remove any that are in bad condition, return them to container, re-cover with cellophane, and refrigerate. If the sprouts are not fresh, return them to the store. Place loose sprouts in perforated plastic bag. Fresh sprouts will keep for 3–5 days.
Preparation
Remove any yellow or wilted outer leaves. Trim stem ends. Be careful not to trim stems flush with the bottoms, or the outer leaves will fall off during cooking. Cut a shallow "x" in the base with a small, sharp knife. This will allow the heat to penetrate the solid core so that it cooks as quickly as the leave.
Boil
Use one cup water for every cup of Brussels sprouts. Bring water to a rapid boil in a large pot, add sprouts, and quickly return the water to a boil. Cook sprout until just tender then drain sprouts
Steaming
Sprouts can be steamed rapidly in a small amount of water. This will minimize the odors created when Brussels sprouts are cooked too long, and will also minimize nutrient losses. There are two ways that they can be steamed. Sprouts can be added to an inch of already-boiling water or can be placed in a covered vegetable steamer. After steaming for 1–2 minutes, uncover pot for 10–15 seconds to disperse the strong-tasting sulfur compounds. Re-cover pot, and continue cooking sprouts for 5–10 minutes in boiling water or 6–12 minutes in a steamer. Check them periodically by poking them with a fork to test for doneness. Cook them until they are just tender.
Raw
Brussels sprouts can be too strong-flavored and chewy to eat raw, especially if they have been stored for a while. Steam them briefly or blanch them in boiling water, then drain them quickly, dunk them in ice water to keep them from cooking further, and drain again.
Friday, May 15, 2009
For The Love Of Tomatoes
The Heirloom Revolution
Take a new look at old tomatoes
Over a decade ago I decided that I was going to grow my own tomatoes for my customers. I also decided, I was going to grow for flavor. A handful of flavorful fruit my grandparents would be proud of rather than bushels of hybrid 'me-to-matoes'. So, in search of the heirlooms I went. Even back then the mystique of the old fashioned, full flavored tomato was alive and well in such varieties as Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, Box Car Willie, and Mortgage Lifter to name just a few. Over the years my passion for growing tomato plants has progressed to a point where I look forward to working with about ten thousand, sown by hand, little 'maters. Almost one hundred varieties, mainly heirlooms, will grace the benches of my greenhouse this spring. This short article is, I hope, an introduction to the whys' of the up-swell in popularity of this fantastically diverse group; Heirloom tomatoes.
What Is An 'Heirloom' Tomato
According to noted authorities, there are four descriptions or categories of heirloom tomatoes. A 'Commercial' Heirloom means an open-pollinated variety introduced prior to 1940. 'Family' Heirloom describes a variety grown from seeds that have been handed down, from generation to generation. The deliberate crossing of two varieties basically creates a hybrid. By planting many seeds of this cross and then collecting seeds from the best plants among this group. Over a succession of at least five generations of this refining process we can 'dehybridize', the original strain. This results in a 'Created' Heirloom. Then finally, the 'Mystery' Heirloom, which is a product of cross pollination, though usually unintentional.
It can be said be said that all heirloom varieties are open-pollinated, but not all open-pollinated varieties are heirlooms. Open-pollinated basically means that if seeds are collected from a fruit, the plants grown from these seeds will yield identical fruit
Like another of my favorites, the Antique Roses, there are hundreds if not thousands of varieties of heirloom tomatoes. They will offer all colors, shapes, and sizes of fruit to temp your senses. We are all familiar with the perfect red orbs found in the grocery. Some even consider these to be the standard. But you will find that the majority of Old fashioned heirloom tomatoes are far from ever perfectly symmetrical. They were not engineered to be uniform in size or shape. Heirloom tomato varieties are passed down through generations because of their individually superior characteristics of dependability and outstanding flavor.
Flavor vs. Marketing
How many times have we seen a tomato roll off the grocer's shelf only to bounce across the floor? Surely someone will dust it off before they put it back? A vine-ripened tomato could never pass this test. SPLOT! Just too soft and juicy; All of that delicious flavor would just go to waste. A tomatoe's flavor is at its peak when vine-ripened, picked fresh and eaten within a few days. Let your sense of feel be your guide to ripeness. The commercial tomatoes offered at our local grocery are picked in the 'mature green, state, stored, and later treated with ethylene gas to 'ripen' them. These tomatoes retain little flavor and are basically used in food dishes only for the color they add. Most of us know this and expect nothing more. Vine- ripened heirloom tomatoes have a multitude of flavors, ranging from highly acidic to sugary sweet. Even most commercial varieties advertised as 'Vine-Ripened' will only be left attached a few extra days until the very first signs of pink appear. When a tomato fruit is harvested in this mature green stage it is unable to develop its inherited complexity of flavor due to the removal of natural heat and sunlight. The commercial USDA Quality hybrid tomatoes seem to be chosen for the uniformity of fruit size, which aids greatly in packing, and shipping ability, or how long can this fruit sit in storage or on the shelf. When plants are engineered or hybridized for these and other traits, flavor is usually the first trait sacrificed. Results are tomatoes typically inferior in quality with bad taste and texture that show up looking perfect on our grocer's shelf.
It has recently come to my attention that even some groups of Amish and Mennonites are giving up on their time-honored heirloom varieties and have begun growing the new modern hybrids. Economic concerns related to shipping and marketing have even affected these groups. They are being forced to give up their more flavorful heirlooms for those newer varieties which keep and ship better.
Special Care
Weather, soil conditions, and care methods all play a role in the overall health, productivity, and fruit flavor of your tomato plants. As a rule of thumb, heirloom varieties are no more difficult than their hybrid cousins. Think about it this way, a tomato variety that has been around so long probably has a lot of natural disease resistance already acquired. As well, when an open-pollinated variety is grown repeatedly in a particular geographic area, they tend to adapt quite quickly. A variety that does not meet expectations one year may impress the next! Little tricks used on any tomato variety will also aid your heirlooms. Soft rock phosphate, micro-rhizal inoculants and regular foliage spraying with seaweed and molasses are all fantastic additions to an already successful tomato grower's repertoire.
Which Is Best?
Which ONE is the best? Which One is the sweetest? Which variety is highest in acidity? I want a tomato that bites back. Which ONE produces the most? My best answer is always, a variety. Any tomato left to ripen on the vine will have a considerably higher acid content and, by variety, a greater proportion of sugars. Some believe red colored tomatoes to be higher in acidity. Actually, the higher sugar content of the lighter varieties serves to mask, but not to eliminate the acidity. Black tomatoes are known for being rich and complex in their flavor structure. Green varieties are often fairly citrusy while the yellow, orange and bi-color fruit offer an assortment of mildly fruity tropical flavors. Some note these yellow and yellow striped varieties to be the sweetest of all. Hillbilly, Pineapple, and Dr. Wyches' Yellow are but a few heirlooms fitting this category. The tomato connoisseurs are rapidly becoming ever more savvy. Black, brown, purple, white, green and orange fruited heirloom tomatoes are now among the most sought after for the variety of flavors and textures they offer.
How Many?
Is it really possible to grow too many tomatoes? Yes. Or so I've read, and been told. Repeatedly by some. But alas, I disagree. I always profess to grow a wide variety of heirloom tomatoes. You can never anticipate which will perform from year to year. Cherry tomatoes are always reliable, producing consistently through our hot summers. Remember, the smaller the fruit the more fruit you get. In addition to a good number of cherries I recommend a handful of smaller fruited varieties. There are too many beautiful fruit in the 2 to 3 ounce size. Green Zebra, Black Plum, Yellow Perfection, Garden Peach, Juan Flamme … A paste variety or two, or three. Experiment with a couple of green or black fruited varieties. These will soon become favorites in your garden, as they are in mine. Fill out your garden with five or six varieties of Beefsteak type slicers, your choice of traditional red or pink, fruity yellow or tangy orange.
Saving Seed
Perhaps the greatest mystique of the heirloom tomato is the ability to collect your own seeds. Seed saving can be fun and easy if you will follow a few easy steps. Plant varieties you intend to collect seeds from in clusters, at least 12 feet from other types (25 feet for cherries). Collect fruit/seed from your healthiest plants. Open the fruit and remove the pulp and seeds. Place these into a clear small plastic container or glass jar. Fill the container half to three fourths full without mixing. Adding air will slow down fermentation. Allow to sit at room temperature or outdoors in shade undisturbed. A few days later a fungus will develop which causes the seeds to fall to the bottom. Scrape off and discard this fungus and pulp. Poor the remaining seeds into a sieve and rinse clean with tap water. Spread out your seeds one layer thick on a labeled pie plate or coffee filter to dry. When dry, store in an envelope in a cool dry place. They should last for years.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
How to Eat Local Foods
How to Eat Local Foods
Introduction
- Eating right is all the rage. So is greening your life. So what's more green than greening your greens? Eatinglocal foods is a good idea, now more than ever. Not only does it bolster the local economy by supporting small, local farms,1. the local foods movement reduces the carbon footprint of your meals and ensures that what you're eating is as fresh as possible.2. But despite its many benefits, joining the local foods movement isn't as hard as you might think!
Step 1: Finding Local Food Sources
- Finding and using local sources is, by definition, the only way to eat local foods. There are several ways to approach the search for local foods. Online research and word of mouth are two ways to conduct your research.
Ask Your Grocer
- Determine whether your market gets their food from local growers - Sustainable Table provides question for your grocer about the farm or location where their products come from.
- Special offers. Some stores may offer local foods only during certain times of year.3 Find out if and when your neighborhood store is highlighting local growers.
- Sustainability. Ask about the sustainability of such products as their beef, chicken and dairy products.4 The quality of what you eat depends on a variety of factors, so ask what the beef, turkey or chicken was fed, and whether they were given antibiotics.
Find Local Producers Online
- Farms. Whole Foods Market can get you in touch with regional producers offering a variety of foods within driving distance.
- Food co-ops. Food co-ops and health food stores with local foods are another good source that can be found online.5
- Farmers markets6 offer the wares of local producers.7 Growers bring their foods to your neighborhood, and you'll find a complete variety of produce.
- Community Supported Agriculture. Find out if there are any Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) farms in your area. You can subscribe to a CSA and receive local foods every season.8
- Widget. In your quest to search out and patronize local growers, you can even get a widget to put on your homepage or social networking site.9
Step 2: Go to the Source
- Hit the road to visit those local producers you've found.10 You'll probably discover you have many more eating choices when you can choose your own growers.
- Visit local farmers. Find producers of everything from meat and poultry to vegetables and fruit within driving distance of home.11
- Check out a Pick Your Own for a fun way to eat local.12 Also known as U Picks, there's a u pick for just about any kind of produce you're looking for.13
- - How much to pick depends on what you're picking and what you want to do14 - for instance, if you're picking apples in order to make applesauce, canning and freezing will yield different amounts.
- Keep an eye out for roadside stands, a great source of locally grown foods.15
Step 3: Grow Your Own Food
- More labor intensive than buying from a grower, a garden gives the do-it-yourselfer more than just vegetables, you'll get a sense of fulfillment.
- Plan your garden. Preliminary ideas on how big to make your garden and other considerations will maximize your success.16
- Consider the amount of shade you'll need for your produce.17 Some vegetables such as lettuce only need partial shade; tomatoes, on the other hand, need direct sunlight.
- When seeding,18 keep in mind what grows well in your area and how much of everything you want to grow.19
- Drainage is also important for your plants. One advantage of gardening in containers is easy drainage.20
Step 4: Change Your Eating Habits
- Your eating habits are not cast in stone. If you want to eat local and seasonal, there are fewer choices for you so you will have to adjust somewhat.
Eat Seasonal
- Locavores have no choice - what you see is what you get when it comes to eating local. If you live in California and tomatoes are not in season, no tomatoes. If you find tomatoes in your supermarket out of season, they have come from far away. While a little more planning is involved in eating local foods, one of the pluses is discovery - you'll find plenty of foods you may not have tried.
- - Sustainable Table provides more tips for eating seasonally.
Experiment
- Because eating locally may introduce you to some new ingredients, you may have to adapt your traditional recipes, or even experiment with entirely new ones.
- New recipes and meal ideas are widely available for the new, seasonal foods you have discovered.21
- You can also try out seasonal food cookbooks can provide plenty of inspiration if you have a taste for culinary exploration.22
Subscribe to CSA Farms
- Community Supported Agriculture farms, or CSAs, depend on a network of subscribers for support. In return for subscribing, locavores benefit from the convenience of having food come to them instead of having to seek out growers in the area.
- Local Harvest is a good source of information on CSAs.
- Keep in mind that subscribing in advance to a CSA also means taking your chances - if there's a bad harvest in your region, your CSA basket for that season might not be all that you dreamed of.
Eat Out Locally
- Discover locavore restaurants in your area.23
- Ask the manager at your favorite restaurant if they use local ingredients.
- According to the Washington Post, chain restaurants are even getting on the localtarian bandwagon.24
Step 5: Get Involved, Get Educated
- Eating locally requires a certain amount of research and leg work. While the local foods movement is steadily growing in popularity, it's still somewhat of a new concept. Helping to make local foods more mainstream will also make it more convenient.
- - Sustainable Table has some great ideas on how to get local foods in your children's cafeteria to make sure your kids can eat green for lunch.
Conclusion
- Eating locally is more than just doing your research, it's also a lifestyle choice. It's a way to improve your health by eating better, and also a way to contribute to the greater good by minimizing the all-important carbon footprint. And if you work it right, helping to save the planet can taste really good.
References for How To Eat Local Foods
- ↑ Food Routes: Why Care
- ↑ Boston: Reducing Food's Carbon Footprint
- ↑ Kroger: Home Grown
- ↑ The Meatrix: Sustainability
- ↑ Green People: Food Coops
- ↑ Local Harvest: Farmers Markets
- ↑ Green People: Farmers Market
- ↑ USDA: Community Supported Agriculture
- ↑ Eat Well Guide: Widgets
- ↑ National Resources Defense Council: Food Miles
- ↑ Eat Well Guide: Find Sustainable Food
- ↑ Pick Your Own: Locator
- ↑ Virtual Farmgirl: U Pick Strawberries
- ↑ Pick Your Own: How Much to Pick
- ↑ Ice Cream Journal: The Roadside Stand
- ↑ Garden: Planning 101
- ↑ Hopkins Technology: Shade
- ↑ You Grow Girl: Vegetable Seed Starting
- ↑ Almanac: Gardening
- ↑ Virginia Cooperative Extension: Vegetables Gardening in Containers
- ↑ Sustainable Table: Recipes
- ↑ Sustainable Table: Cookbooks
- ↑ Chefs Collaborative: Locavore Restaurants
- ↑ WashingtonPost.com: In Trial Run, Chipotle Heads to the Farm (March 26, 2008)
Online Resources for How To Eat Local Foods
- Sustainable Table: Questions To Ask | Eat Seasonal | School dining
- Whole Foods Market: Locally Grown
- Local Harvest: Community Supported Agriculture
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